How to Solder Electronics
106,326 views22 Editors Edited 10 days ago
This article mainly deals with the soldering of through-hole components into printed circuit boards (PCBs). Through-hole components are those which have leads (meaning wires or tabs) that pass through a hole in the board and are soldered to the pad (an area with metal plating) around the hole. The hole may be plated through or not.
Soldering of other electrical items such as wires, lugs, have slightly different steps but the general principles are the same.
Steps
Solder (Electronics) Step 1.jpg
1Select the correct component. Many components look similar, so read the labels or check the color code carefully.
Ad
Solder (Electronics) Step 2.jpg
2Bend leads correctly if required, discuss stress relief. To be completed...
Solder (Electronics) Step 3.jpg
3Clinching leads. Discuss whether to cut leads before or after soldering based on whether heatsinking effect is required. To be completed...
Solder (Electronics) Step 4.jpg
4Melt a small blob of solder on end of the soldering iron. This will be used to improve the transfer of heat to your work.
Solder (Electronics) Step 5.jpg
5Carefully place the tip (with the blob) onto the interface of the lead and pad. The tip or blob must touch both the lead and the pad. The tip/blob should not be touching the nonmetallic pad area of the PCB (i.e the fibreglass area) as this area can be damaged by excessive heat. This should now heat the work area.
Solder (Electronics) Step 6.jpg
6"Feed" the solder onto the interface between the pad and lead. Do not feed the solder onto the tip! The lead and pad should be heated enough for the solder to melt on it (see previous step). If the solder does not melt onto the area, the most likely cause is insufficient heat has been transferred to it. The molten solder should "cling" to the pad and lead together by way of surface tension This is commonly referred to as wetting.
with practice, you will learn how to heat the joint more efficiently with the way you hold the iron onto the work
flux from the solder wire is only active for about one second maximum after melting onto the joint as it is slowly "burnt off" by heat
solder will wet a surface only if:
the surface is sufficiently heated and
there is sufficient flux present to remove oxidation from the surface and
the surface is clean and free of grease, dirt etc.
Solder (Electronics) Step 7.jpg
7The solder should by itself, "run around" and fill in the interface. Stop feeding the solder when the correct amount of solder has been added the the joint. The correct amount of solder is determined by:
for non plated through hole (non-PTH) PCBs (most home made PCBs are of this type) - stop feeding when the solder forms a flat fillet
for plated through hole (PTH) PCBs (most commercially manufactured PCBs) - stop feeding when a solid concave fillet can be seen
too much solder will form a "bulbous" joint with a convex shape
too little solder will form a "very concave" joint.
How to Solder Electronics
106,326 views22 Editors Edited 10 days ago
This article mainly deals with the soldering of through-hole components into printed circuit boards (PCBs). Through-hole components are those which have leads (meaning wires or tabs) that pass through a hole in the board and are soldered to the pad (an area with metal plating) around the hole. The hole may be plated through or not.
Soldering of other electrical items such as wires, lugs, have slightly different steps but the general principles are the same.
Steps
Solder (Electronics) Step 1.jpg
1Select the correct component. Many components look similar, so read the labels or check the color code carefully.
Ad
Solder (Electronics) Step 2.jpg
2Bend leads correctly if required, discuss stress relief. To be completed...
Solder (Electronics) Step 3.jpg
3Clinching leads. Discuss whether to cut leads before or after soldering based on whether heatsinking effect is required. To be completed...
Solder (Electronics) Step 4.jpg
4Melt a small blob of solder on end of the soldering iron. This will be used to improve the transfer of heat to your work.
Solder (Electronics) Step 5.jpg
5Carefully place the tip (with the blob) onto the interface of the lead and pad. The tip or blob must touch both the lead and the pad. The tip/blob should not be touching the nonmetallic pad area of the PCB (i.e the fibreglass area) as this area can be damaged by excessive heat. This should now heat the work area.
Solder (Electronics) Step 6.jpg
6"Feed" the solder onto the interface between the pad and lead. Do not feed the solder onto the tip! The lead and pad should be heated enough for the solder to melt on it (see previous step). If the solder does not melt onto the area, the most likely cause is insufficient heat has been transferred to it. The molten solder should "cling" to the pad and lead together by way of surface tension This is commonly referred to as wetting.
with practice, you will learn how to heat the joint more efficiently with the way you hold the iron onto the work
flux from the solder wire is only active for about one second maximum after melting onto the joint as it is slowly "burnt off" by heat
solder will wet a surface only if:
the surface is sufficiently heated and
there is sufficient flux present to remove oxidation from the surface and
the surface is clean and free of grease, dirt etc.
Solder (Electronics) Step 7.jpg
7The solder should by itself, "run around" and fill in the interface. Stop feeding the solder when the correct amount of solder has been added the the joint. The correct amount of solder is determined by:
for non plated through hole (non-PTH) PCBs (most home made PCBs are of this type) - stop feeding when the solder forms a flat fillet
for plated through hole (PTH) PCBs (most commercially manufactured PCBs) - stop feeding when a solid concave fillet can be seen
too much solder will form a "bulbous" joint with a convex shape
too little solder will form a "very concave" joint.
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